Adjustable Tenkara Line
One of the things I love about my Tenkara USA Ito is the zoom feature which gives you the ability to instantly lengthen the rod when you need a little extra reach. But I’ve always dreamed of and adjustable line.
Wouldn’t it be nice to instantly change your line from a 10 ft. to a 15 ft. without having to tie one more line or use loop-to-loop connections? I’ve been experimenting but haven’t quite gotten it to work the way I’d like yet. The idea goes like this:Two lengths of line overlap each other. At the tag end of each line, there is a slip knot that allows you to adjust the length of the line by sliding the knots toward or apart from each other. The knots lock so when a fish is on, it won’t extend the line.
I have found locking slip knots, but the problem is that they only work for softer materials or materials with texture (like rope). They won’t work with hard, slick fluorocarbon. So, either I have to find a knot that will behave the same way with a slippery material like fluorocarbon or will have to find another material to make the line from that will work with these knots (Dacron maybe?).
Anyway, I’m still experimenting. If anyone has any suggestions for knots or different materials for the line, please let me know.
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Jason Klass is a former fly fishing guide who now exclusively fishes Tenkara for trout in the streams and lakes of Colorado...Read More
I love the idea. I’ve only done the loop to loop connection for this – it works okay, but this would be quicker. On the small streams that I fish it would be nice to be able to adjust quickly for “dapping” (I know that’s a bad word). The irony is that the uninitiated think that tenkara is dapping – when it actually sucks for dapping, unless you use a really short line. But the short line sucks for everything else – so there you have it. Let us know what develops.
As you know, I have been pondering on similar subject and I do believe that your idea is in its essence a very good one, but the drawbacks I see, beside slipping non-slip knot, is that it creates a taper with a heavier middle section by having a “doubled-over” line (more difficult to keep line off the water) and that the middle sections will have twice as much wind resistance when casting since it’s “doubled-over”. I sometimes wonder if there is a great solution that fits all. At this point I think we just might need to do the loop-to-loop extensions if you want to be flexible. Or have lines in each length.
You could try my method of tying on an adjustable indicator dry fly for the dry and nymph rig.
Thread a soft, small diameter plastic tube onto the line attached to the lilian. Tie the extending line to the tube using a uni or grinner knot. Pull the knot tight enough to hold in position.
Use a grinner or other sliding knot for the lower knot.
Nothing to say about the knots…
About dacron i’ve used it im my first experiments with tenkara
and it cast ok, very sensitive, no memory but absorbs water!
Waiting for your future experiments!
You’re right Karel so now I’m thinking of making the line adjustable to only two lengths. In the shorter mode, the doubled over part would only be at the butt (king of like a tapered leader). When full extended, it would be just a straight up level line. We’ll see if this works or knot (couldn’t resist).
Good to know about the dacron. I gave Chris Steward a bunch of high vis dacron to make loop for girth hitch connections on level lines. He was impressed but how high vis they were and the first thing he asked me was, “have you tried casting these as a tenkara line?” I shamefully admitted I hadn’t. But now I will give it a try. Might be OK for fishing sakasa kebari.
Hmmm, not sure I understand how this works. Do you happen to have a picture or diagram somewhere?
Jason, I think this is making things way too complicated.
A few things to consider, go with a 15ft line, and move back and forth. It is very much like shooting with a prime-lens camera (no zoom) you move back or forward to get to your subject.
If you find yourself in a place where you really must use a different length line do one of the following:
1) Cut your level line, save the unused portion and if you really must make it longer again just tie it back together with a blood-knot. (carrying 2 spools of line also allows you to do this).
2) Double part of your line over. Once I fished a long section of a stream using my 18ft line, then came across a very tight area. Instead of cutting the line, I simply doubled over part of my level line, twisted the doubled part together to create a furling and tied the ends of that together. This way I had a tapered level line for that short section of the stream.
I may be missing the point of the adjustable line, but having a line that you can double over if needed or being able to join two lines together will solve the problem. It’s amazing how rare it is to need to adjust line length.
Hi Daniel,
I’m not sure why you think this is “way too complicated”. The zoom feature of the Ito is more “complicated” to manufacture ahead of time but it makes life simpler on the stream by being able to instantly adjust your reach. I see no difference between that design and pre-making (manufacturing ahead of time) an adjustable line at home that would accomplish the same result. It seems to me that when you talk about complexity vs. simplicity, you’re talking about what happens on the stream and I’m talking about preparations to simplify what happens on the stream.
The goal is to make it as easy to adjust the line as possible (i.e. without cutting it, tying knots, etc.). So, # 1 would not be the solution I’m looking for. I know I can do all of that but am just experimenting to see if there’s a more “automatic” and convenient way.
#2 sounds like it could work although I’d rather do the work at home and have it be as simple as sliding some knots around on stream. After you furl the doubled-over line, what knot do you tie to secure it? I don’t want to cut line and re-tie it later. I would just rather stick with one length in that case and move around as you say.
I have posted a diagram here http://www.flickr.com/photos/losthackle/
Hope it helps. Cheers
Jason,
Well, rods are more complex to make. I just feel that suddenly there are so many components to resolve a problem that really isn’t there.
Also, keep in mind that if you have two lines running parallel to each other there will be the space between them. On a looser cast or with wind things will get messy very quickly, when going around you will have a lot of line to manage.
About doubling over the line, a double surgeons will work.
Hi Daniel,
Good points and in all fairness, this will probably not work out. Most likely, I’ll continue fishing regular lines. But I have to try it to satisfy my own curiosity.
(BTW, thanks for starting a new comment. These threaded comments can get awfully “thin” awfully fast!)
I have to say, loop-to-loop again. To get back to first principles: Just curious what the problem with the simple loop-to-loop connection is? Is it that you think it takes too long to change up the length with the loop-to-loop? Or do you not like the “bulky” loop-to-loop connection? If the problem is the time to change – then I think what you need is a better/quicker line storage solution (making the L-2-L connection is pretty quick). Although, it seems like if had you had the extra line stored on ez-keepers it would be pretty darn quick and easy. You could always make a long line holder that’s 24″ or so long, that would hang on your belt, that way you only have a few wraps to get the extra piece on or off the holder.
If the problem is the bulk, then you could try a small snap swivel (snap swivel on line end, tippet ring on the extra piece), or leader links from Cabelas http://bit.ly/tkPo4O . That would make the connection quicker and less bulky.
If you heart is set on the sliding system have you considered the various “super-lines”, the come in all colors and weights, and material, I bet you could find one that is thinner/denser and more castable than dacron backing, and also has some bite for knots. link to super-lines http://bit.ly/uarEX5
I don’t have a problem with loop to loop connections. In fact, I’m just fine fishing a regular level or furled line. I just want to push the envelope and see what’s possible, that’s all. If it doesn’t work, no biggie. I’m happy fishing the way I do now. I just think it’s fun to experiment.
Jason, just 1 or 2 things more about the dacron that came to mind…
I’ve used it for nymhing in lakes, worked great, it was a heavy 30 lb dacron and the rod was a crapie pole.
When i finally bougth (more than 2 years ago) my iwana with Daniel i didn’t tried that dacron again cause it was way to heavy for the iwana.
But i’m guessing what if i try a 12 pound dacron??
Well, unhappily i don’t have it, but my intuition is telling me it could work just nice in a slower rod like the Ayu!
Jason,
Let me preface this by saying I ultimately agree with Daniel. I enjoy being active, and move quite a lot when I fish. I back up, move forward, kneel, lie down, grab my rod as high as the 4th section, throw in all kinds of casting variations to match my setup to the conditions at hand. I like that adaptive activity, and will no longer fish what I am about to describe.
1) Attach a line keeper at 2.5ft from the tip of your rod. I use a small rubber band because it is easily adjusted for different line lengths and easily removed when I want to stow my rod.
2) Cut a 15ft line.
2) Attach the line at the 15ft mark to your lilian (perhaps using one of the dyneema loop connections you previously posted about).
3) Attach that same line to the lilian at the 10ft mark using the standard albright method (this creates a 2.5ft radial loop at the tip of your rod).
4) Secure that 2.5ft radial loop to the line holder you placed 2.5ft from the tip of your rod.
5) Go fishing.
When you want to extend to 15ft, simply pop the looped line out of the line holder, loosen your albright connection by pulling on said loop, slipping the albright connection off the lillian.
You will have a small squiggle of memory at that 10ft mark. Easy to get rid of by running your fingers over it. But it can also come in handy as a sight indicator.
I mainly used this method for fishing much longer lines – 15ft adjustable to 30ft. In this case, your mark is far enough down the rod that you can consider using a fuji easy keeper or, best yet because they don’t collapse accidentally mid-cast, one of your Bass Pro line holders.
Now ditch everything I said, lie on your left side (effectively shortening your rod by about 4ft), and execute a reverse belgian to punch your line under the tightest of spots!
Interesting idea Robert, I’ll have to try it. And, it’s not that I don’t move around a lot (just ask Brian Flemming). It’s just that there are some places that are just out of reach and it’s impossible to position yourself to get a good presentation. Like I said in another reply, I will probably abandon the idea and fish the way I do now but it’s worth exploring and we’re getting some great discussion here. This is why I love the tenkara community!
Blatt,
Did you try 20 lb. just out of curiosity?
Jason, unhappily i didn’t…
The 30lb happens to be the only dacron i use for my western fly reels …
Jason
I have enjoyed your backpacking blog but see you have not made a entry lately. I was curious if you were okay but I see you are here on your fishing blog. Did you change locations or websites for backpacking?
Dale
Hi Dale, thanks! I haven’t posted on Gear Talk because I’ve been busy and wanted to focus on fishing this year since I didn’t get out much last year. But I will be posting soon. I have a pile of winter gear to review so keep checking back and thanks for reading